"She refused to be bored, chiefly because she wasn't boring." Zelda Fitzgerald

Showing posts with label foodie. Show all posts
Showing posts with label foodie. Show all posts

Sunday, February 6, 2011

The Cheese List Gets A Home

Cover of "Cheese Primer"Cover of Cheese Primer
The Great Cheese List that I blogged about recently has become a living thing with soul and a will. I started out with a vague list in my mind which morphed into a real, concrete list and then became a thing I shared with friends, a kind of culinary Bucket List curiosity. Ah, but now...now The Great Cheese List is a thing that I think about every time I find myself in the grocery store. I have perused the list so many times that the names of certain cheeses have begun to ring in my mind like mysterious musical notes, niggling  foodie terms that make me salivate. I have always had a friendly relationship with cheese but, now I find it is getting quite serious.

A and I are reading through Steve Jenkin's, Cheese Primer aloud in the evenings and we find ourselves driven ever higher in pursuit of our quesophilic aspirations. He describes ways to eat cheese, how incorporate it into breakfast, lunch and tea and how to know a good one when you find it. We sit snugly, by the fire, nodding like small cheese loving hobbits over his descriptions and suggestions...our eyes whirling in little spirals. The love of cheese has turned us into very dairy-centric folks.

I think part of our mutual attraction to cheese is literally in that dairy connection. When we married we were both big milk drinkers and we would sit down and drink tall, cold glasses together with fresh cookies and feel very chummy for it. These days, A is such a constrained little man and he has become so entirely calorically vigilant that we no longer share our love for a tall frothy glass of milk, he tells me he can't afford the calories. And honestly, I only drink one glass a day myself. But, then...there is cheese.
Italian cheeses.Image via Wikipedia

We have begun to eat cheese as a hobby. We both have copies of The Great Cheese List on our iPhones and we carry it around, bleeping back and forth through it as we lean over the brightly lit dairy cases as the cheese mongers watch us interestedly. We are the new breed of quesophile. We peruse our list while we pick out a cheese (or two or three!) and then we take it home and we're back on our phones, searching for information about the history and eating advise for the tender wheels and molten nuggets we've taken home. We are wired eaters.

And "the list" is no longer a slightly joke ridden, silly idea. It's a serious thing. We're going to eat all the cheese on that list or die trying. It's somehow important. And you can come along! In fact, you might even be able to make your own cheese journey faster, simpler and perhaps even more pleasant by following along as we lope through the list and continue our ever expanding tasting sessions. I've decided it's time for The List to have it's own tab here on the blog. From now on, if you look at the top of the site you will see it, sitting there, next to my poem collection and my about page and hopefully, it will continue to evolve...more and more fleshed out, more filled with descriptions and opinions and tips about eating everyone's favorite melty, oozy, salty, tangy treat. If you have a cheese I have to add....please do tell.

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Thursday, November 4, 2010

The Great Cheese List

So yes. Cheese. I like cheese. You like cheese. So, today we talk about cheese.

This fall we went (as we often do) to Vermont to getaway into billboards-are-illegal, mountains-are-cool land and we decided to make it a tasting tour. Vermont has a fabulous world of small farmers, locally produced goods and excellent craftsmanship. Of course, Vermont is specifically known for its dairy energy.

There are few other states besides perhaps Wisconsin that can give it a run for its money in the world of bovine-centricness. I'm all about it. It means that Vermont, is a great place to eat cheese.

You've read before how I feel about food. Suffice it to say that I like it. A lot...and handily I'm married to a man who is similarly inclined. We love the pleasure that procuring, preparing and consuming food can give us and we love the adventure that can be involved. Sometimes its the crazy lengths we'll go to to get a cluster of oyster mushrooms down out of our neighbors trees but sometimes its the raw novelty of trying something reportedly fabulous that has never crossed our lips. Cheese, for us, is a great place to look for culinary adventure.

Heaven knows how many cheeses there are out there and we haven't tasted even a quarter of them yet! Hooray for unexplored worlds!

So, this fall when we went to Vermont, mid-stride through our food-tour I (iPhone in hand) started looking up cheese...and in particular looking for recommended cheeses that we ought to try...the kind of life-changing edibles that you have to seek out.

What I ended up with is what I now call affectionately, The Great Cheese List. I am keeping notes on what we've had and how we felt about the experience and slowly compiling my own private ultimate, favorites list.  I keep it in my email so that I pull it up quickly at a moments notice, should we find ourselves unexpectedly blinking into the cheese display at a wonderful grocery. Heh. Don't laugh. Its happened.

This weekend we plan to have the first of what we hope will be a series of cheese focused gatherings at our house...we've asked a couple friends to bring their favorite rindy, bloomy, creamy, slice-able cheeses and we're going to go pick some off our list and hopefully, we'll have a new round of excellt favorites to add to the mother list.

In case you're curious...here's the dish:
  1. Auricchio Sharp Provolone
  2. Baluchon
  3. Banon
  4. Beecher's Flagship
  5. Beemster
  6. Bergenost
  7. Berkswell (from Neil's Yard)
  8. Besace du Berger
  9. Boerenkaas
  10. Boursin's sweet cheese w/ guava, raisin and nuts
  11. Brie de Meaux
  12. Brin d'Amour
  13. Cacicavallo
  14. Cambozola
  15. Camembert Chatelain
  16. Campo de Montalban
  17. Carpicho de Cabra (the goat version)
  18. Chaource
  19. Chaumes
  20. Chevre Noir
  21. Chevrot
  22. Clisson (Tome d'Arquitaine)
  23. Cotswold
  24. Crottins de Chevre (let it get warm)
  25. Cypress Grove Midnight Moon
  26. Epoisses
  27. Etorki
  28. Ewephoria
  29. Explorateur
  30. Fontina Val d'Aosta
  31. Fourme d'Ambert
  32. French Sheeps Milk Feta (double creme)
  33. Gratte Paille Double Creme (Lauren Bacall's favorite)
  34. Haloumi
  35. Hubbarston Blue Goat
  36. Idiazabal
  37. Jasper Hill Farm Constant Bliss
  38. Le Papillon Roquefort (black foil, not green)
  39. Livarot
  40. Maytag Blue
  41. McAdam Triple Cream cheddar
  42. Mignergon de Charlevoix
  43. Mimoulette
  44. Montbriac
  45. Mont Enebro
  46. Morbier: We weren't terribly impressed with this one. Its quite mild and not unpleasant just not impressive. Admittedly, we tried it with some rather robust partners so we may give it another go in a different setting. We heard that if we liked Gruyere we had to try Morbier, but the tastes seem unrelated to me. Puzzling.
  47. Neal's Yard Ardahan
  48. Ossau Iraty
  49. Parrano
  50. Parrano Robusto (maybe the same as above?)
  51. Pecorino Foglia Noce
  52. Pepato
  53. Perlagrigia
  54. Petite Basque
  55. Pierce Pt. (from Cowgirl Creamery)
  56. Pierre Robert
  57. Pleasant Ridge Reserve
  58. Queso de la Serena
  59. Reblochon
  60. Red Cloud
  61. Red Square
  62. Roaring Forties: A blue I like! A wonderful, nutty cheese with lots of pleasant zing and a sweet background flavor. I can't say I roundly dislike blue cheese anymore.
  63. Roccolo
  64. Romano Aged Gouda (from Holland): Whew! This stuff is so strong! Its good but a little stronger than something we would like to eat all the time. Kind of a novelty to try...totally different from "gouda."
  65. Roquefort Carles
  66. Sally Jackson Sheep Milk Cheese
  67. Selles sur Cher
  68. Sir Wilfrid Laurier
  69. Sottocenere
  70. Spanish Cabrales
  71. St. Andre
  72. St. Marcellin: Amazing! Totally melty with a tender rind that is almost like a crust over the pourable insides. Full of high flavor...so wonderful! A favorite for sure. Am kicking myself because we missed it when we were in Lyon. Its the signature cheese of the region and ubiquitous there, apparently. It comes in a little earthenware crock because it is too melty to stand alone.
  73. St. Nectaire
  74. Taleggio
  75. Tipo Cabrales
  76. Tuma
  77. Turma Persa
  78. Vacherin du Mont d'Or
  79. Valdeon: A liked it. Too strong for me. Kind of an electric, zappy blue, presented wrapped in chestnut leaves.
  80. Vermont Coupole

My Current Favorites:
Appenzeller: (We like black label best, which is the strongest!) A firm, emminantly slicable cheese that is excellent with apple wedges. Perfectly sweet, sharp, fragrant, tangy, quite nutty. Like a Gruyere with its grown-up socks on! A flagship Swiss cheese we met when we finally strolled The Alps together, my childhood dream.

La Tur: A mixed milk cheese from sheep, cow and goat milk. A fabulously creamy smooth texture with a lovely complex flavor. Hints of tang, round flavors, wafts of mushroom, positively mind blowing. So good with honey and almonds. My cousin Drake introduced us to this cheese when we had dinner under his tutelage in Santa Barbara. You can read all about it in this post here!

Burrata: A cheese that I think I maybe heard about on NPR or else found in a book. I can't recall. We tracked it down in Zabar's in NYC. You can find anything in Zabar's. Burrata is creamy and smooth with a little smooth elasticity. It comes wrapped in a pouch of green leaves and is hard to obtain because it expires with such speed. It must be perfectly fresh. The live leaves its wrapped in are a marker of its freshness...if the leaves are still perky then the cheese is still good. I have found some versions sold in fake leaves but they are not nearly as good. The cheese itself is very like a soft fresh mozzarella, but has a hollow center that is essentially filled with a mixture of soft bits of the cheese and cream. I slice it in wedges and eat on thin bread, drizzled with honey.

Beltane Farms Chevre: I like to buy this cheese directly from the farmer because I like it young, young, young. Its a tender, moist cheese. Very tangy but with a round sweetness far in the background. I love it eat it spread on ciabatta and topped with basil leaves, olive oil and meaty, fresh tomato slices sprinkled with sea salt

St. Marcellin: So good...creamy, complex, a bit nutty but with a tiny kick, very liquid cheese, great for eating with a spoon. Has a tender rind and comes in a crock to protect it the mooshy little round. 

Bonne Bouche: Pronounced bon-boosh. This is a Vermont cheese which is made by the same company that keeps us Americans in quark. Good, good people. Bonne Bouche is wonderfully brightly flavored and creamy, comes from goat milk, has an ash-coated rind and comes in its own little wooden box, to support the tender disk en-route to your car...which is all the further it got when we bought it. Mmmm...

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Thursday, February 18, 2010

My Eater's Manifesto

A gave me several cookbooks for Christmas and I have been reading slowly through them, note-taking my way through a book on breastfeeding nutrition and also another on feeding children in a health manner. Yesterday I picked up a copy of Bon Appetit at the check-out. One of the things that was hardest for me about my week of spring cleaning was that I took a total vacation from the kitchen and we ate all prepared foods, by the end I was fantasizing about the myriads of things I could bake and serve when I was finished. Food matters. I know its important to everyone on some level but, clearly we're really into it at our house.
You might even call A and I foodies and get away with it. I like food, he likes food, we like exploring food and eating food and cooking food and growing food and buying food. We'll eat pretty much anything once. Still, I have a hard time with the label foodie because it gets all confused with "gourmet" (a label I once was trying on for size but have now let go). I'm no food elitist...I think homemade chicken noodle soup is every bit as wonderful as filet mignon with Bearnaise sauce. Good food is good food from the most simple, hearth cooking and the dirt-covered, homegrown carrot to the most elegant, architectural dessert plating. I don't eschew fancy food, everybody likes a treat now and then but, its not on any kind of pedestal in my world and I am not trying to pretend to be a chef in my home. I'm a housewife and a home cook and for the most part, I cook homey stuff. Simple stuff, the stuff of life. Pasta. Steak. Slow cooker soup. Homemade bread. So, only call me a foodie if you mean food lover not if you mean snooty-Francophile-chef-imitator. And please, never be afraid to serve me mac and cheese in a box or a grilled cheese on white bread, I promise, I'm not too good for your kitchen.
One of the other pieces of my food world that could get me confused with a gourmet and make people think I'm a food snob is health-foodism. I am an admittedly crunchy person. I believe in pro-biotic foods, I like to maximize my local food intake, we eat a lot of produce at our house, I try to serve fish frequently, I think honey is good and white sugar is bad, I like to buy my eggs right from the farmer, I buy grass-fed beef and free-range poultry, I drink raw milk....etc. etc. This isn't because I'm too good for such-and-such a "normal" food, its just because I care a lot about health and from my reading on nutrition these look like vastly superior choices. I realize not everyone can afford to buy these things and would never prescribe the preceding list as some kind of moral imperative. BUT....its not food snobbery either. I'm not trying to make the most elegant, expensive choices possible, I just want to serve and eat good food. Not fancy, good. They're different.
Even though I'm not obsessive gourmet type, I do find famous chefs inspiring. They are after all, some of our country's most expert food workers...they know what they're doing and occasionally, one of them changes some piece of the way I operate in the kitchen forever. Julia Child completely revolutionized my method of cooking scrambled eggs, for instance.
So, given their position of great influence, I am always excited when I hear that chefs are taking their captive audiences in hand and using their platform to teach people better ways with food. Better, not fancier. I was really excited to see Alton Brown one of the big Food Network stars lose the classic chubby chef look and pursue a new life in relationship to food. I think his perspective and dietary ideas are right on. Check out the video below and tell me what you think.





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